![]() ![]() ![]() Don't worry about messing with the EQ and the DSP will fix it. If I had the XL screen I would try to find an oem 8.X screen or take a gamble with one of those 12. It’s a good enough size that I don’t want anything more. I will eventually be upgrading my B&O system to JL Audio C5 series front & rear, as well as adding a JL Audio TW3 subwoofer, and a JL. I believe these two companies make an INCREDIBLE product that truly sound amazing, even in their lower-end offerings. I don’t have anything crazy, just the 8.X screen on a Lariat. When it comes to speakers, I have always been a JL Audio fan, with Focal in a close 2nd place. This way, you're not really "wasting" any time or effort by installing the amp first.Īny help is appreciated!I would do the FOR11CK and a Dayton 408 DSP, I did this to my 2017 F-150. If I had the really small screen on the XL I would probably try to upgrade as well. If you decide to install the amp first, take that opportunity to run all the wires that you'll need later. It's not perfect, but it's definitely a noticeable improvement from the driver seat. 2019-2020 Ford F-150 Sync 3 to Sync 4 with Wireless Apple CarPlay and Android Auto Upgrade. 2019-2020 Ford F-150 4 to 8 Sync 4 Touchscreen Upgrade with Wireless Apple CarPlay / Android Auto. It's in the sound settings menu at the bottom. 2015-2020 Ford F150 Start-Stop ESS Disabler Programmer. The factory radio actually has simple time alignment built in, which you can change between "Driver" and "All seats". ![]() Until you get your DSP, you can try changing the EQ setting in Forscan to see which you like best. It's the same thing and half the price, but delivery is 1-2 weeks. If you don't mind waiting for the shipping, grab the ISO-SOT-984-w on eBay instead of the FOR-11CK. Using a large piece to seal the access holes will make a significant improvement to your midbass, even with the stock speakers.Īlternatively, HushCarAudio on here makes ABS panels to cover those holes, which is the preferred material since it's much stiffer. ![]() I just dont know if its worth the effort the install the mini-amp than later install a DSP? Will the DSP make that much of a difference if I just flatten the EQ using Forscan for only the miniamp? (I know a DSP has time alignment and etc, but Im not worried about that yet and just want better sound and loudness at the moment) I plan to upgrade the speakers after as I know the stock headunit is the limiting factor for output and a DSP & 4Ch should be first.Ĩ0 mil Noico, at least on the door panels, inner and outer. This is part 1 of a 5 part series on a 2020 Ford F-150 Raptor we just completed for a complete custom stereo system upgrade. Upgrading the sub/amp will be a later thing as the one i have now works for what i need. I currently have a Scosche HDMA504 (4ch, 50Wx4 RMS, 400W Max, High-level input) sitting in my garage and was wondering if it worth buying the FOR11CK to install this now or should I wait to get a DSP also? So onto the upgrade process, I plan to keep the factory headunit but the game plan is to slowly upgrade the speakers and put a proper subwoofer/amp in the back.Īt the moment I'm debating on how I should go about this as I plan to do these upgrades slowly. The first thing I'm wanting to know is, when I changed to the external sub output on Forscan I noticed my speaker volume actually decreased and was wondering if anyone else noticed this? I cant seem to put it back to the same volume setting in Forscan. At the moment the only upgrade I have is a 10" slim sub with built in amp wired to the factory sub harness and enabled in Forscan. I plan to upgrade the stereo for better SQ and a bit louder. Shoot me a PM if you want all the gory details.Hey everyone, I have a 2018 8" Sync 3 7Speaker without the B&O system. Again, it was unnecessary but there is something about the having the Eagles loud enough to make your ears bleed now and then. I'm 60 years old and just finished the full upgrade myself last month. Sounds a lot more complicated than it is. Is a true B&O, you'll have the TOSlink plug on the amp (it's a small blue one) and then you'll need the Zen TV A2B interface. My 2019 had the B&O but was basically a Sony system so I could use the AMP PRO to get signal for the amp. I have been installing stereos and car system for 20 years. 2020 Threads 3 Messages 18 Reaction score 22 Location Florida Vehicles 2021 f150 Occupation. Honestly, the C1 upgrade was really good but I wound up doing the whole deal, with JL Audio 5 channel amp, components, and a stealth box which is better but not $3k better. OTA, SYNC, Stereo, Nav, Phone, FORScan, FDRS, FordPass, BlueCruise, Driving Aids, Cameras. Or.a complete build using an AMP PRO to bypass the factory amp, and a sub box. You can put a shallow mount sub (8") in the factory box and add a mini amp to the just the sub and you'll probably be good. For easiest upgrade using the factory amp, JL Audio C1 6X9 components in the front, 6.5 coaxial in the rear. I've done two upgrades, last to a 2019 with B&O. ![]()
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